1940's Nightgown

I just finished sewing this nightgown from Advance pattern 3090 from the 1940's.

I used some really pretty fabric I've been hoarding in the stash for over 10 years. It's a sheer light-blue cotton with a bit of sheen to it and a delicate floral print. I bought it before I really started sewing, but was already stalking fabric shops. I just fell in love with the colors and print and bought was left on the bolt.

The trim is something really special.

It was given to me by a good friend and it came from her grandmother's stash. I'm not sure how old it is, but I believe it predates the 1950's as a number of other items from the collection she gave me were obviously from before that time period. What a treasure!

As for the Advance pattern, I can't say enough how much I like this pattern. I did make a muslin of the gown first and made a number of adjustments since it isn't quite my size, but the pattern was so easy to put together. No darts, no zippers. Just ties in the back. Now that I have an altered pattern, I plan to make a day dress with sleeves but at the shorter length.

I did learn a few things along the way with this project. I was most worried about top-stitching, but that turned out just fine. Edge-stitching the trim was the most difficult part, because even with careful basting the trim tended to slip off the edge of the fabric under the machine presser foot. I did have to reinforce a few spots by hand, but it's not noticeable. The instructions called for bias strips to face the armholes, but didn't give any further directions. I made narrow bias strips, but they don't lay as flat as I'd like. (I wonder if there is a better way to make facings, perhaps using the bodice pattern as a guide.)

To finish the seams, I studied a number of vintage nightgowns I have and decided to use french seams for the shoulder and side seams. The gathered edges are machine overcast. My sweet hubby helped me mark the hem. I've come to appreciate how important it is to mark a hem from the floor; this gown, for example, has more than an inch of extra length in the back when laid flat. If I had just hemmed evenly along the bottom, it would look very wrong on me!

I really love making sleepwear. Of all the garments I've made for myself, they seem to turn out the best. I think sleepwear is generally simpler to sew, and the fit is not as critical. It's also easier to play "dress-up" with nightwear. I wouldn't wear 1940's garb most places I go, but now I can feel the glamour any night of the week. I think I'll be needing a bed jacket next.